As the time for us to move back home draws closer, my thoughts and emotions about our big, upcoming transition continue to grow in intensity. The past few weekends have been spent with many of my favorite people in Korea. I'm feeling fresh and filled up from all the amazing relationships I've gotten to relish in and build upon lately. I'm so fortunate and thankful for the life we've gotten to enjoy in Korea and I'm going to be really sad when I have to say goodbye to all the people and things that I love here. What an amazing 4-year journey it's been.
At the same time, I look forward to the life that awaits us back home and I'm thankful for so many things that will come with that change. As one chapter closes another big adventure is set to begin. Loose ends are being tied and preparations are being made for the future. It's scary and exciting! I am constantly wondering and daydreaming about what God has in store for us next. At the same time, part of me is doubting His ability to top the chapter I'm finishing now. I want to revel in every last word that He's writing now and read it all slowly and carefully, so as to squeeze out and savor every last drop of enjoyment that's here for me. It's a strange place to be, on the brink of transformation. I remember feeling similarly before graduating high school, college, and getting married.
Today, I went to the doctor to get refills on my monthly prescriptions for my thyroid, allergies, and asthma (talk about getting all the negative health genes in the family). I walked in (no appointment necessary), waited 5 minutes, talked to the doctor for 3 minutes (he always greets me warmly), paid the equivalent of $3, then walked across the street to the pharmacy, waited another 5 minutes for my medicine while drinking my complimentary vitamin C juice (by the pharmacist who also greets me warmly), paid another $15 for my 3 medications (that would run me about $200 back home), then was on my way. As I was sitting waiting for my prescriptions I started thinking how much I was going to miss the ease, simplicity, and affordability of the Korean healthcare system. This thought led to more thoughts about many of the things I'm going to miss in Korea. Suddenly I was sitting there all teary-eyed, painfully realizing (again) that leaving Korea is going to be hard. As time continues to tick down, this thought seems to surface often and is usually followed by increasing feelings of sadness. I know it's a perfectly normal emotion to be experiencing right before ending a chapter in life. As I sat there in the pharmacy with my sadness, I came up with a mental checklist of things I will either miss about Korea or be happy to leave behind. Without further adieu, here is a hard copy more for myself than anything else.
Things I'm going to miss:
- my friends who are basically my family now, some of which I might never see again face to face.
- the diversity of friendships I have here. I literally have good friends from all corners of the earth.
- open-minded people. people who don't necessarily think the same way as me or share my spiritual faith but still respect me.
- my korean family at our climbing gym.
- a communal culture that values the common good over narrow self-interest, independence, and self-indulgence.
- living simply and easily within my means and not being too attached to my material possessions.
- my 20 hour/4 day work week (full-time pay).
- 4 months paid vacation a year. the time and means to travel extensively and experience new ways of life.
- having the free time to pursue my passions and discover new ones.
- as previously mentioned, efficient and affordable healthcare.
- the extensive and cheap public transportation system (bus, train, subway).
- the squishy, uber-flat, asphalt river trail just outside my house.
- fresh, local, seasonal, and affordable produce.
- the sweetest strawberries, juciest peaches, most fragrant purple grapes, crunchiest apples, and abundant persimmons.
- a farmers market that is open all day, everyday
- the wrinkled, old, hunched over ladies that sell the produce at said farmers market.
- the amazing vegetable gardens and grape vineyards along the river trail by my house.
- the endless hiking trails outside my front door.
- the dozen or so climbing areas within 1 1/2 hours drive.
- cheap acupuncture and alternative/oriental medicine.
- floor heat.
- $5 jimjilbangs. Sauna/spa like places that are oh, so relaxing yet affordable.
- really delicious, homemade kimchi.
- quick, cheap, healthy food options.
- squatty potties.
Things I'm NOT going to miss:
- crazy, erratic drivers.
- ridiculously slow, incompetent drivers.
- scarcity of toilet paper and/or soap in restrooms (especially in restaurants).
- toilet paper dispensers at the front entrance of the restroom instead of the stall (what to do when one wipe just isn't enough).
- girls smoking in the bathrooms at school.
- boys smoking at the end of the hallways at school.
- the wafting sewage smells.
- old men hocking up loogies and spitting them all over the ground.
- dodging said loogies on the ground.
- old men peeing in public places in plain sight.
- old men getting drunk and obnoxious on soju.
- kimchi/soju breath (especially in the morning).
- people staring at me wherever I go.
- lack of personal space.
- our leaky roof
- the premium price placed on dairy products.
- the lack of cheese selection.
- the humidity in the summer.
I suppose that's a good start. Living in Korea has really changed me. Of course I'm still the same; same inherent personality, temperament, spiritual foundation. But I've learned, grown, and yes, changed. I have new perspectives on nearly everything. I think more outside the box now. My biggest fear in coming home is that I'll fall right back into my old negative patterns of existence that I've worked so hard to extinguish. Patterns that my culture at home will tempt me to embrace. But I have high hopes for myself that what I've learned from this chapter will stick with me and I'll be able to go home and continue living out my life with purpose and intention. I hope to stand firm and not veer from the path I'm on. I've just gone to see the world, now maybe I can live up to my desire and be the change I want to see back home.
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
Friendship
Friendships are rather complex, if you ask me. I haven't had too many friends that just "clicked" outright. This probably says more about me than the friends I have. Recently, I've been analyzing what makes a good friend. Here's my list so far. Feel free to contribute your own additions.
1. Have something in common: This could be as simple as a favorite color (if you're 5), movie genre, gas station (Quiktrip), job (if you enjoy it), sports, hobbies. Pretty much anything that you can talk about and share enthusiasm over.
2. Have matching communication: This is a more intricate detail, not easily described in words. Interrupting is a good example. Some people (person A) may interrupt others because they are so excited about the information they want to share. Other people (peron B) choose to wait to speak until there is a pause in the conversation. Neither is necessarily right or wrong, they're just different. But when person A and person B get together to chat, A might think B is uptight or rigid, while B thinks A is rude and doesn't let people think. Other examples: comfort with silence, eye contact, body language.
3. Similar levels of openness: This one is a doozy! Basically, both people need to feel like they can be themselves. It's this unspoken rule that you can only share so much about yourself before another shares the same. If the other person doesn't open up the way you did, then you wonder if you said too much. This is the same with giving advice. Many people have mentor friends without knowing it. That's when A is always going to B when they need advice. But B never goes to A in the same way. It's like a big brother or sister instead of an equal friend. When both people are able to open up, be themselves, ask questions, give and get answers, and receive acceptance in all this, then the friendship is genuine.
4. Shared sense of care: This one is all about not having an agenda. There are many ways to show another person you care about them, but the main point is that your friend knows you care about them. When you contact someone via one of today's various technologies (Facebook, email, phone, text, etc), how often do you contact that person without a reason? I think in today's day and age, it's easy to get so busy that we begin to only think about ourselves. How do I get everything done I need to today? When we are able to slow down and think about people that are important in our lives, our close friends are probably some of the first that come to mind. It's important to care for others, just as it is to feel cared for. This is why a "pointless" phone call or message can go so far. Being married, I know that "just because" gifts go much further than birthday gifts, or any other time gifts are expected. "Just because" means "I thought of you for no other reason than that I care for you." Love is not a fulfillment of an expectation; it is a pouring out of one's heart.
5. Have something to offer: This one sounds pretty simple, but many people go into friendships with the perspective of, "what can I get out of this?" In it's most raw form, this outlook is not a friendship; it's a business endeavor. Having something to offer means, you are willing to give of yourself because you care about the other person, no strings attached. It's very closely related to #4. Friendship goes against the grain of our society because it can't be measured in worth. You can't buy or sell a friendship. So in light of this, you have to be willing to give of yourself without expecting anything in return. Some might say, "you scratch my back, I'll scratch yours." But this perspective falls short. You will always be looking for ways to make things even. Yes, a friendships works best when it's equally yoked, but if the friendship itself is hinged on this point, it is not made to last. If you can learn to give without expecting in return, you have learned the greatest and toughest point. Unconditional love.
1. Have something in common: This could be as simple as a favorite color (if you're 5), movie genre, gas station (Quiktrip), job (if you enjoy it), sports, hobbies. Pretty much anything that you can talk about and share enthusiasm over.
2. Have matching communication: This is a more intricate detail, not easily described in words. Interrupting is a good example. Some people (person A) may interrupt others because they are so excited about the information they want to share. Other people (peron B) choose to wait to speak until there is a pause in the conversation. Neither is necessarily right or wrong, they're just different. But when person A and person B get together to chat, A might think B is uptight or rigid, while B thinks A is rude and doesn't let people think. Other examples: comfort with silence, eye contact, body language.
3. Similar levels of openness: This one is a doozy! Basically, both people need to feel like they can be themselves. It's this unspoken rule that you can only share so much about yourself before another shares the same. If the other person doesn't open up the way you did, then you wonder if you said too much. This is the same with giving advice. Many people have mentor friends without knowing it. That's when A is always going to B when they need advice. But B never goes to A in the same way. It's like a big brother or sister instead of an equal friend. When both people are able to open up, be themselves, ask questions, give and get answers, and receive acceptance in all this, then the friendship is genuine.
4. Shared sense of care: This one is all about not having an agenda. There are many ways to show another person you care about them, but the main point is that your friend knows you care about them. When you contact someone via one of today's various technologies (Facebook, email, phone, text, etc), how often do you contact that person without a reason? I think in today's day and age, it's easy to get so busy that we begin to only think about ourselves. How do I get everything done I need to today? When we are able to slow down and think about people that are important in our lives, our close friends are probably some of the first that come to mind. It's important to care for others, just as it is to feel cared for. This is why a "pointless" phone call or message can go so far. Being married, I know that "just because" gifts go much further than birthday gifts, or any other time gifts are expected. "Just because" means "I thought of you for no other reason than that I care for you." Love is not a fulfillment of an expectation; it is a pouring out of one's heart.
5. Have something to offer: This one sounds pretty simple, but many people go into friendships with the perspective of, "what can I get out of this?" In it's most raw form, this outlook is not a friendship; it's a business endeavor. Having something to offer means, you are willing to give of yourself because you care about the other person, no strings attached. It's very closely related to #4. Friendship goes against the grain of our society because it can't be measured in worth. You can't buy or sell a friendship. So in light of this, you have to be willing to give of yourself without expecting anything in return. Some might say, "you scratch my back, I'll scratch yours." But this perspective falls short. You will always be looking for ways to make things even. Yes, a friendships works best when it's equally yoked, but if the friendship itself is hinged on this point, it is not made to last. If you can learn to give without expecting in return, you have learned the greatest and toughest point. Unconditional love.
Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Intrinsic Motivation
I watched a short webinar recently about finding your passions. It was done by this girl who is sort of a life coach and writes about that exact topic. I won't get into all the details, but one thing that stuck out to me was her definition and explanation of intrinsic versus extrinsic motivations. I think I already knew what they were, but never had them explained so concisely. Intrinsic motivation means you are motivated by the work itself, while extrinsic motivation is motivated by the outcome.
An example: If you love your work as an artist, you may not be so much as interested in the final product of the painting you just made, as much as you are in the process it took to get there. Each brush stroke has meaning. All the thoughts come together to create the mural. Yes, you are satisfied with the piece of art you show to people. But it holds more meaning to you because of the process it took to get there, and you enjoyed every minute of it.
In contrast, extrinsic motivations are incentives used to get to the end. You want to hurry and get it over with so you can move on to something different/better. More money is the obvious one. If you made a higher salary, do you think you will be happier? Extrinsic motivation thinks of the end. You want to sell as many products to make the most profit to make the company thrive to make the boss happy to get you a raise. Do you enjoy selling the product? Or are you trying to make a buck? Obviously, I am one-sided in my perspective, but I still participate in the incentives program.
Today's culture seems to be fueled by extrinsic motivation, except for the occasional guilt trip by a superior that you should enjoy your job, which in turn can cause another extrinsic motivation to act happy to get your boss off your back. Working on commission is supposed to encourage the employee to sell more because the employee should be motivated to make more money.
Sports are another example. Every football team wants to win the Superbowl. But how many athletes love to practice? I believe it is those who embrace every aspect of the game, including the practice, the sweat, the team camaraderie that are intrinsically motivated. When I swam in college, it wasn't until my senior year that I became intrinsically motivated. I actually loved going to practice. I enjoyed the way my body sliced through the water after working my body into shape. The pain was worth it because I felt better, stronger, afterwards. Of course I was motivated to win, but I think it was the intrinsic motivation that drove me to swim my personal best at the end of the season.
I have been able to enjoy intrinsic motivation in my climbing as well. Many people know I climb, but I think few people (other than those who climb) understand why. From an outside perspective, I am not gaining anything. There is no prize at the end. For 95% of the people who climb, it is not an occupation. There's no money or fame involved. Ah, but these are extrinsic. Climbing is largely an intrinsic sport, something foreign to our society. Yes, some people climb to be the best, or at least better than "him" or "her". But I think the large majority does it because it is fun. The feeling of using your body, working through problematic sequences, soaking in the sunshine, being encouraged by your peers, groaning together when you fall. When the competition is removed, intrinsic motivation remains. And I love it. Why? Because of the process. I may climb 5.9 or 5.14d, but the process is the same nonetheless. We are meant to enjoy the process of getting to the top.
An example: If you love your work as an artist, you may not be so much as interested in the final product of the painting you just made, as much as you are in the process it took to get there. Each brush stroke has meaning. All the thoughts come together to create the mural. Yes, you are satisfied with the piece of art you show to people. But it holds more meaning to you because of the process it took to get there, and you enjoyed every minute of it.
In contrast, extrinsic motivations are incentives used to get to the end. You want to hurry and get it over with so you can move on to something different/better. More money is the obvious one. If you made a higher salary, do you think you will be happier? Extrinsic motivation thinks of the end. You want to sell as many products to make the most profit to make the company thrive to make the boss happy to get you a raise. Do you enjoy selling the product? Or are you trying to make a buck? Obviously, I am one-sided in my perspective, but I still participate in the incentives program.
Today's culture seems to be fueled by extrinsic motivation, except for the occasional guilt trip by a superior that you should enjoy your job, which in turn can cause another extrinsic motivation to act happy to get your boss off your back. Working on commission is supposed to encourage the employee to sell more because the employee should be motivated to make more money.
Sports are another example. Every football team wants to win the Superbowl. But how many athletes love to practice? I believe it is those who embrace every aspect of the game, including the practice, the sweat, the team camaraderie that are intrinsically motivated. When I swam in college, it wasn't until my senior year that I became intrinsically motivated. I actually loved going to practice. I enjoyed the way my body sliced through the water after working my body into shape. The pain was worth it because I felt better, stronger, afterwards. Of course I was motivated to win, but I think it was the intrinsic motivation that drove me to swim my personal best at the end of the season. I have been able to enjoy intrinsic motivation in my climbing as well. Many people know I climb, but I think few people (other than those who climb) understand why. From an outside perspective, I am not gaining anything. There is no prize at the end. For 95% of the people who climb, it is not an occupation. There's no money or fame involved. Ah, but these are extrinsic. Climbing is largely an intrinsic sport, something foreign to our society. Yes, some people climb to be the best, or at least better than "him" or "her". But I think the large majority does it because it is fun. The feeling of using your body, working through problematic sequences, soaking in the sunshine, being encouraged by your peers, groaning together when you fall. When the competition is removed, intrinsic motivation remains. And I love it. Why? Because of the process. I may climb 5.9 or 5.14d, but the process is the same nonetheless. We are meant to enjoy the process of getting to the top.
Monday, September 19, 2011
From Sweat to Sweatshirts
Fall is here, or so it seems. Two days ago we had the air conditioning running for most of the day, but today Rebs had had a sweatshirt on for about half the day. Seasons in Korea are like that. And the funny thing to me is that the Koreans know exactly when it is. I remember having a conversation with our climbing gym owner a few years ago. We were making plans to go climbing a week or so later. He checked his calendar and then shook his head, saying, "No. Monsoon season." We asked him when it started and he told us in about a week. Sure enough, a week later it was pouring down buckets. Then we had about 2 weeks of normal conditions, though a bit humid. And then typhoon season came for 2 more weeks. Apparently the weather here is just as predictable as the driving-- meaning that initially it seems like total chaos. But after you've been driving in the country, you know exactly what's going to happen without the warning of a turn signal (an Asian sign of weakness).
Rebs is elated. She was just wishing Fall to be here, and now it is. We have the next month lined up with climbing, camping, seeing old friends who are leaving the country. It is definitely the time to be outside. I was reminded recently that we ought to seek peace and joy in our lives. This weather makes it easy to do just that.
It also happens to be apple and eggplant season right now. We eat our vegetables seasonally over here, picking them up cheap and fresh at the daily farmer's market in downtown Gyeongsan. You can get 3-5 eggplants for about $1, and i got about 15 apples for $3. It's great incentive for creativity and experimentation with new recipes. Rebs recently mastered her first attempt at baba ghanoush (aka eggplant hummus), while I currently have a crock pot of what will hopefully turn out to be some delicious apple butter. i make a point to save many of our glass bottles for this sort of occasion.
A big thing going on back home is that my brother-in-law, Cass Harris, is trying to record and produce his first album via Kickstarter. I love this guy a lot and think he is a very talented musician and has something special to share with the world. His songs are soulful, not your run-of-the-mill anything. I highly recommend going and checking out what he's doing.
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
News
Yesterday morning, I made an important phone call. It was important because the results strongly affect what we'll be doing in the next 6 months. If you didn't know this already, Rebs and I are planning to move home to the United States. After 4 years of Korean living, we're ready to move on to the next chapter. Think babies, family, school, careers, none of which have we been pursuing very heavily while over here.
My phone call was to the Cherokee Nation EMS program based out of Tahlequah, Oklahoma. I have been planning to take their EMT (Emergency Medical Technician) course for some time now, and possibly the Paramedic course thereafter. Specifically, I was calling to get dates in mind. Up until now, Rebs and I had been hoping to do some traveling over the winter, then head to the States for a 1-2 month road trip for climbing at a few places we have never been. This phone call changed all that. The EMT course starts early March, will last for 6 months, and then the Paramedic course starts just after the EMT course finishes.
My understanding is that if I want to take the Paramedic course, this is the best time to take it because it is only offered every 18 months, the duration of the course. And since the two are lined up next to each other, I wouldn't have to wait after my EMT course.
There are so many variables in the mix right now that I don't want to talk too much more about them until they are finalized. But I guess this was all to say that we'll be home sooner than you might have thought.
My phone call was to the Cherokee Nation EMS program based out of Tahlequah, Oklahoma. I have been planning to take their EMT (Emergency Medical Technician) course for some time now, and possibly the Paramedic course thereafter. Specifically, I was calling to get dates in mind. Up until now, Rebs and I had been hoping to do some traveling over the winter, then head to the States for a 1-2 month road trip for climbing at a few places we have never been. This phone call changed all that. The EMT course starts early March, will last for 6 months, and then the Paramedic course starts just after the EMT course finishes.
My understanding is that if I want to take the Paramedic course, this is the best time to take it because it is only offered every 18 months, the duration of the course. And since the two are lined up next to each other, I wouldn't have to wait after my EMT course.
There are so many variables in the mix right now that I don't want to talk too much more about them until they are finalized. But I guess this was all to say that we'll be home sooner than you might have thought.
Sunday, August 21, 2011
Home Sweet Home?
As I look through the last of our photos from the trip, sitting here in my living in Korea, I know that our vacation is over. We still have a week, thankfully, to get prepared for the school semester and check things off our list like, "Pick up Epic". While sitting on a bus to transfer terminals in Narita (Tokyo, Japan), I noticed someone was touching my leg. No, not a creepy guy or an accidental bump by someone who says "excuse me", but a 10-year-old Korean boy, still wearing his neck pillow from the plane, oblivious that he is breaking my personal space. Why? Because there is no personal space in Korea, or Asia in general. He continues to bump my leg as we ride the bus. Welcome home.
As we got in our car last night, I sat in the driver seat feeling cramped, thinking how small our car feels after having driven a rental for a month. I feel like I'm sitting on a phone book. I go to start the car. Oh yeah, it's a stick shift. As we drive through the side street of our neighborhood, a car pulls out of an apartment complex and cuts me off, then continues to drive slowly. Your car is small, therefore you never have the right of way.
It is these small idiosyncrasies that remind me that I am home, back in the "land of the morning calm". But I find myself more irked by such things than I used to be. I always used to subscribe to the idea that we choose live and work in a country other than our own, therefore we subscribe to their rules and culture. But after nearly 4 years, I am growing tired of it. Friends we have here have talked about knowing when it's time to leave. You can just sense it in a person, this restlessness that grows in agitation over simple things that make no difference individually in the big picture. But it is the buildup of getting cut off, shouted at, or whatever happenings that leave a person feeling undignified--they become the straw that breaks the camel's back.
And so it is with myself that I can sense my mood is different. My friends here are great, my work load light, the beauty of the mountains all around us. But I know it is time for us to move on. It will be a challenge this semester to stay positive, to focus on the good, and not to itch for the day we head back to the States. If you pray, please do so for me in this.
As we got in our car last night, I sat in the driver seat feeling cramped, thinking how small our car feels after having driven a rental for a month. I feel like I'm sitting on a phone book. I go to start the car. Oh yeah, it's a stick shift. As we drive through the side street of our neighborhood, a car pulls out of an apartment complex and cuts me off, then continues to drive slowly. Your car is small, therefore you never have the right of way.
It is these small idiosyncrasies that remind me that I am home, back in the "land of the morning calm". But I find myself more irked by such things than I used to be. I always used to subscribe to the idea that we choose live and work in a country other than our own, therefore we subscribe to their rules and culture. But after nearly 4 years, I am growing tired of it. Friends we have here have talked about knowing when it's time to leave. You can just sense it in a person, this restlessness that grows in agitation over simple things that make no difference individually in the big picture. But it is the buildup of getting cut off, shouted at, or whatever happenings that leave a person feeling undignified--they become the straw that breaks the camel's back.
And so it is with myself that I can sense my mood is different. My friends here are great, my work load light, the beauty of the mountains all around us. But I know it is time for us to move on. It will be a challenge this semester to stay positive, to focus on the good, and not to itch for the day we head back to the States. If you pray, please do so for me in this.
Friday, August 12, 2011
Yesterday was an adventure. It was our last climbing day in Skaha before heading back across the border to Oregon. We had gotten up early, hiked up to the Great White wall, and enjoyed a crap shoot of climbing with an early morning start (early at least by our standards). Our first two sport routes had turned out to be duds. Rebs has this tendency to find easier-looking routes that turn out to be extremely difficult, which is exactly what our “warm up” route turned out to be. We definitely got warm, and moved on to find another one that was better. My choice turned out to be a diagonally bolted one that remained awkward most of the way, then finished with some nice, slopey ledges (please read with sarcasm). Not exactly a great route either. I think Rebs actually called it the worst route she’d ever been on.
So since our sport routes were turning out bad, we decided to try our hands at some traditional-style crack climbing. This is a relatively newer style of climbing for me, and especially for Rebs. I thought the route was phenomenal. A perfect seam that you could at least get finger tips into the whole way up with a couple pumpy spots to keep it exciting. But Rebs had a different experience. On any crack climbs I’ve put her on previously (quite a few here at Skaha over the past week or so), she’s managed to avoid using the crack and scramble her way up in some ridiculous fashion. But this time, she had to use it. Not to mention the exposure on the route. (It is at the top of a massive valley.) She worked her way up eventually, refusing to quit like the stubborn girl I love and adore. But the route was so long, she had to rappel twice, the first time to some anchors she couldn’t see from above. She did really well not to hyperventilate or pass out, but the anxiety left her exhausted. Yet, she still managed to have enough energy to belay me on a really cool route called “Test of the Ironman”, a very long and reachy route, hence the name. The sun was starting to hit the rock, so it was about time to move on.
We had some lunch and then hiked down to another area to rest in the shade. After a bit of rest and some bee swatting, we looked at the guidebook and I pointed out two different options that looked good to me. We decided to go up and look at the first and then make a decision.
The first route turned out to be two pitches, a runout, 4 bolt, 30 meter climb to a ledge, then an easy 5.9 trad route. Rebs said it looked good, so we decided to do it. Only when I was racking up did she point out that this was her first (voluntary) multi-pitch trad route.
The top pitch turned out to be the gem of it all, with a little bit of perfect hand jamming that even Rebs enjoyed. She was about halfway up the route when she heard a distant rumbling and turned around to see a massive thunderhead moving in on our cloudless blue sky. She began climbing more quickly while I did my best to stay quiet and let her enjoy the route, although my mind kept flashing back to the WFR couse (Wilderness First Responder) I’d taken in college and all the information and statistics they’d given us, essentially saying that on a rock face, attached to a bolt and a rope is the last place you want to be when a thunderstorm hits. I also thought about how a few days earlier, we had decided to take our rain fly off the tent since we were in such a dry climate and wanted to cool things down faster.
Fortunately, Rebs had no hiccups and made it back to the belay station shortly, from which we rappelled again to the ground. A beautiful route, just a little rushed. We scurried to pack up our gear then, speed hiked/jogged our way back to the parking lot. The huge blue-grey cloud loomed just East of us as we drove the 15 minutes back to our campsite. Like angry bees, we zipped around and got the tarp back on the tent and all our junk off the picnic table in a matter of minutes. The cloud was rising over the rock nearest to us when we decided not to stick around for the showers, but to head into town for a few errands to prep for the long drive to Oregon the next day.
In town, the streets were already wet, as if we had just missed the downpour. We could see the rain and lightning just North of us a few miles. I pumped gas as it sprinkled rain, my first shower of any kind in a few days. Meanwhile, Rebs went next-door and found a restaurant attached to a hotel that has free wifi, so we split a sampler appetizer for dinner and checked email. Upon our return to the campsite, our wonderful host Dale said he’d sat at his picnic table working a crossword while the storm rolled through. He said he counted ten drops. All that work for nothing! But we saw it as a sign that we were meant to be done because we got all our errands done, the camp mostly packed up in 5 minutes, and still had time for a beer and good conversation with Dale and “Gloria”. It was a great end to this part of our journey. We will never forget you Skaha.
So since our sport routes were turning out bad, we decided to try our hands at some traditional-style crack climbing. This is a relatively newer style of climbing for me, and especially for Rebs. I thought the route was phenomenal. A perfect seam that you could at least get finger tips into the whole way up with a couple pumpy spots to keep it exciting. But Rebs had a different experience. On any crack climbs I’ve put her on previously (quite a few here at Skaha over the past week or so), she’s managed to avoid using the crack and scramble her way up in some ridiculous fashion. But this time, she had to use it. Not to mention the exposure on the route. (It is at the top of a massive valley.) She worked her way up eventually, refusing to quit like the stubborn girl I love and adore. But the route was so long, she had to rappel twice, the first time to some anchors she couldn’t see from above. She did really well not to hyperventilate or pass out, but the anxiety left her exhausted. Yet, she still managed to have enough energy to belay me on a really cool route called “Test of the Ironman”, a very long and reachy route, hence the name. The sun was starting to hit the rock, so it was about time to move on.
We had some lunch and then hiked down to another area to rest in the shade. After a bit of rest and some bee swatting, we looked at the guidebook and I pointed out two different options that looked good to me. We decided to go up and look at the first and then make a decision.
The first route turned out to be two pitches, a runout, 4 bolt, 30 meter climb to a ledge, then an easy 5.9 trad route. Rebs said it looked good, so we decided to do it. Only when I was racking up did she point out that this was her first (voluntary) multi-pitch trad route.
The top pitch turned out to be the gem of it all, with a little bit of perfect hand jamming that even Rebs enjoyed. She was about halfway up the route when she heard a distant rumbling and turned around to see a massive thunderhead moving in on our cloudless blue sky. She began climbing more quickly while I did my best to stay quiet and let her enjoy the route, although my mind kept flashing back to the WFR couse (Wilderness First Responder) I’d taken in college and all the information and statistics they’d given us, essentially saying that on a rock face, attached to a bolt and a rope is the last place you want to be when a thunderstorm hits. I also thought about how a few days earlier, we had decided to take our rain fly off the tent since we were in such a dry climate and wanted to cool things down faster.
Fortunately, Rebs had no hiccups and made it back to the belay station shortly, from which we rappelled again to the ground. A beautiful route, just a little rushed. We scurried to pack up our gear then, speed hiked/jogged our way back to the parking lot. The huge blue-grey cloud loomed just East of us as we drove the 15 minutes back to our campsite. Like angry bees, we zipped around and got the tarp back on the tent and all our junk off the picnic table in a matter of minutes. The cloud was rising over the rock nearest to us when we decided not to stick around for the showers, but to head into town for a few errands to prep for the long drive to Oregon the next day.
In town, the streets were already wet, as if we had just missed the downpour. We could see the rain and lightning just North of us a few miles. I pumped gas as it sprinkled rain, my first shower of any kind in a few days. Meanwhile, Rebs went next-door and found a restaurant attached to a hotel that has free wifi, so we split a sampler appetizer for dinner and checked email. Upon our return to the campsite, our wonderful host Dale said he’d sat at his picnic table working a crossword while the storm rolled through. He said he counted ten drops. All that work for nothing! But we saw it as a sign that we were meant to be done because we got all our errands done, the camp mostly packed up in 5 minutes, and still had time for a beer and good conversation with Dale and “Gloria”. It was a great end to this part of our journey. We will never forget you Skaha.
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